{"id":38419,"date":"2013-09-18T12:00:04","date_gmt":"2013-09-18T17:00:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/?p=38419"},"modified":"2014-06-11T14:18:01","modified_gmt":"2014-06-11T19:18:01","slug":"this-hard-land","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/?p=38419","title":{"rendered":"This Hard Land"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Note to all you folks thinking of moving to North Dakota to start cashing in on the oil boom:\u00a0 North Dakota is cold.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/www.lovethesepics.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/TRNP-badlands-winter.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"594\" height=\"446\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There aren&#8217;t a lot of trees.\u00a0 And outside of the eight or nine\u00a0significant-sized cities (Fargo, Grand Forks, Jamestown, Devil&#8217;s Lake, Bismark\/Mandan, Minot, Williston, Dickinson, and maybe Valley City), there just aren&#8217;t a whole lot of people.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>More below the jump, so the rest of the page can load&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>But you know the stereotypes.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/www.sott.net\/image\/image\/17669\/full\/cavalierco_nd_winter_2009_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"648\" height=\"432\" \/><\/p>\n<p>What the place lacks in trees and people, it makes up for in wind, and windy cold in the winter, and windy dry heat in the summer, and a\u00a0horizon that&#8217;s far enough away to give an agoraphobiac a seizure.\u00a0 And above it all,\u00a0a sky that a schoolgirl &#8211; a young African-American girl whose parents were stationed at Minot Air Force Base &#8211; once referred to as &#8220;big and blue and full of the mind of God&#8221; to an observer.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.staticflickr.com\/7025\/6641699339_c4bcb0659e_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"512\" height=\"348\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We&#8217;ll come back to that quote, and the\u00a0observer,\u00a0in a bit.<\/p>\n<p>As NPR, and MPR, and the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/?p=29223\">New York Times <\/a>tell us (and tell us, and tell us), the oil boom is not an unalloyed blessing to everyone.\u00a0 Breitbart, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.breitbart.com\/system\/wire\/upiUPI-20130916-051613-2697\">in a story about the increase in oil production in the state<\/a>, embedded this video, from Time magazine, about three transplants (one from the Iron Range) who are having their misgivings about living in the boom.\u00a0 The guys &#8211; a roughneck and a trucker &#8211; are bored with man camps and having nothing to do but working, drink, watch TV and play video games.\u00a0 The woman &#8211; a gofer &#8211; misses people and free time and an outside world.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The video clocks at about 13 minutes, and is worth a watch.<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/embed.newsinc.com\/Single\/iframe.html?WID=1&amp;VID=24969473&amp;freewheel=69016&amp;sitesection=breitbart_nws_us_sty_vmppap&amp;width=675&amp;height=506\" frameborder=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" marginheight=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" width=\"675\" height=\"506\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>All three of the subjects of the video &#8211; shot amid what could easily be stock &#8220;North Dakota B-Roll&#8221; footage of drifting snow and howling winds &#8211; bemoan the loneliness, the isolation, the lack of&#8230;stuff. Things. Distractions. Background chatter.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/dullumfile.areavoices.com\/files\/2013\/07\/SKY-TWO.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"435\" height=\"327\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And if you watch the video &#8211; or lots of the news coverage of the people moving to North Dakota for the oil boom &#8211; you&#8217;d almost think you were watching a story on Mars colonists, people who are going where nobody&#8217;s gone before.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s wrong, of course &#8211; but for most of the country, it&#8217;s probably not a bad simile.<\/p>\n<p>&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;-<\/p>\n<p>On the one hand, I feel for them.\u00a0 I grew up there.\u00a0 Not out on the Bakken, of course; I was a city boy in Jamestown (pop. 15,000), in the eastern third of the state, then and now safely hidden away from any hint of excessive, unseemly\u00a0prosperity (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/?p=36465\">maybe<\/a>), but with people around, down in a valley that deflected the endless wind and brought the horizon in close around me for most of my early years.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 435px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/scenicdakotas.com\/northdakota\/jamestown\/mainstreet-downtown.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"425\" height=\"297\" \/><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Main street in Jamestown. By central ND standards, it&#8217;s an urban jungle. I actually met people in little towns like Bordulac (pop ~50) who didn&#8217;t like coming to Jamestown because of the traffic and crime. My dad still lives about a block from where this shot was taken.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On the other hand?\u00a0 <em>People live there<\/em>.\u00a0 They raise families, they have careers and homes andlives, just like anyone in Portland or Grand Rapids or New York&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&#8230;but different, too.<\/p>\n<p>The\u00a0schoolgirl&#8217;s observation about the North Dakota sky\u00a0(&#8220;big and blue and full of the mind of God&#8221;) comes from a 20-year-old book, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Dakota-A-Spiritual-Geography-Dakotas\/dp\/B003L1ZYVA\"><em>Dakota &#8211; A Spiritual Geography<\/em> <\/a>by Kathleen Norris.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 And if you know anyone who&#8217;s thinking about moving out to NoDak to cash in on the oil boom, you could do a lot worse than having them read the book.<\/p>\n<p>In 1974, Norris and her husband were hangers-on in the New York literary scene; they worked for literary mags, they wrote poetry, they went to brie-and-chablis receptions in TriBeCa &#8211; all of the code terms for &#8220;thoroughly urban and utterly urbane&#8221;.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>And then Norris got a letter from an attorney in Lemmon, South Dakota; her grandmother, who owned a farm nearby, had passed away, and willed the farm to Norris and her husband.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The couple went west, thinking it&#8217;d be a fun lark; hang out on the farm for a bit, then sell it and return to the city with some funny farm stories.\u00a0 Like <em>Green Acres<\/em> for cool people.<\/p>\n<p>It didn&#8217;t pan out, of course; the Norrises became attached to the place.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>But &#8211; as <em>Dakota <\/em>reminds us &#8211; not in an uncritical way.\u00a0 There is much to love about life on the drift prairie; if you&#8217;re an outdoorsman, there&#8217;s a lot of outdoors.\u00a0 People are honest, prices low and crime virtually nonexistant (outside the oilfields with their shortages and bored outsiders), and some of the modern world&#8217;s more pointless and frenetic changes get filtered out before they make it out there.\u00a0 And it&#8217;s a beautiful place &#8211; in a very simple, raw way.\u00a0\u00a0 And while the environment is raw and merciless, a professor of mine &#8211; a Philadelphia transplant who still lives in Jamestown, 30 years later &#8211; pointed out that people in the northern Plains who do\u00a0appreciate things like art, music, culture and other things that transcend the here and now, appreciate them a <em>lot <\/em>more than people who are surrended by them all the time, and often practice them with a zeal that astounds him; small-town art galleries, recitals, plays and concerts are a big event; authors, playwrites and musicians crank away on labors of love that may be obscure outside the region, but are vital in the local here and the regional now.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n<p>But the challenges and tribulations are simple and raw, too.\u00a0 Mother Nature is a cast-iron bitch out there; brutal cold, wilting heat, furious storms, and above all the wind.\u00a0 It never stops.\u00a0 There are stories &#8211; I remember them, and Norris writes about them &#8211; of farmhouses discovered with doors open, breakfast sitting on the table, but no farmers or families; the wind drove them over the edge; they packed up and left without a forwarding address.\u00a0 They had to go somewhere else (one hopes) &#8211; to get away from the damned eternal wind.\u00a0 And it&#8217;s been worse, you are (or were) reminded; in the seventies and eighties, the Dust Bowl was still in peoples&#8217; living memory.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Between the weather, the sparse population and the distances between human habitation, each little settlement is like an island &#8211; an island surrounded by grass and furrows and alfalfa or wheat or sunflowers instead of water, but very nearly as isolated.\u00a0\u00a0 There just aren&#8217;t a lot of distractions.\u00a0\u00a0 Even today, with the internet and hundreds of channels of cable, it&#8217;s an isolated place.<\/p>\n<p>And Norris&#8217; biggest observations were about the people who live there, and had for most of a century, through bonanza and dustbowl and boom and bust.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone\" src=\"http:\/\/www.whereongoogleearth.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/north-dakota-oil.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Norris compared the locals &#8211; the people who survive and thrive in such a hostile place &#8211;\u00a0to monks; people who&#8217;ve taken vows of simplicity and self-abnegation, who mix a sunny &#8220;Can Do&#8221; attitude to fixing up and brightening their surroundings with a monastic aesceticism that accepts a life with a level of ambient hardship and self-denial.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s not entirely a noble thing; generations of self-denial led to a culture that doesn&#8217;t expect much, is expected to be satisifed with what it&#8217;s got and not to ask for a whole lot more, and gets a little passive-aggressive about those who do.\u00a0 The Norwegian idea of <em>Janteloven<\/em>\u00a0 &#8212; knowing your place and not getting uppity &#8211; is alive and well (or at least it was when I was a kid).<\/p>\n<p>Norris&#8217; observations were a watershed to me when I first read it, back in the nineties.\u00a0 It helped me understand some of the &#8220;fish out of water&#8221; aspects of my own personality after almost a decade in the big city, and some of the things I was missing about the place &#8211; and a few that I really, really didn&#8217;t.\u00a0<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/ts4.mm.bing.net\/th?id=H.4702582338488799&amp;pid=1.7\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scranton, ND&#8217;s entertainment district<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The three subjects of the video brought back both sides of the coin for me.\u00a0 &#8220;Quit your blubbering; you came here looking for a way to make ends meet, and you found it in spades.\u00a0 And STFU; people live here, and were living here long before TV and video games.\u00a0 So quit crying to me about how bored you are; I survived.\u00a0 You might, too&#8221;, says the homer.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The guy who left the place feels for &#8217;em, too.\u00a0\u00a0 That guy wants to give the three of them &#8211; and other newbies to the area &#8211; a couple\u00a0 pieces of advice:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>There is no such thing as cold weather.\u00a0 Only inadequate clothing.\u00a0<\/li>\n<li>&#8220;Boredom&#8221; is a state of mind.\u00a0 Step outside the box to keep it occupied, whatever &#8220;outside the box&#8221; means to you; read a book, become a poker master,\u00a0learn the drums, get addicted to Fantasy Football&#8230;whatever.\u00a0 Maybe all of the above.\u00a0 Boredom is a 100% preventable disease.\u00a0\u00a0 God knows I had plenty of practice in my day &#8211; and I lived there 22 years.<\/li>\n<li>As to the locals?\u00a0 They were hard to get to know even before the place became overrun with outsiders.\u00a0 But it wouldn&#8217;t hurt at all to try, in your spare time.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Anyway &#8211; if you know someone who&#8217;s thinking about making the move, you could worse than give them a copy of <em>Dakota.\u00a0 <\/em><\/p>\n<p>Forewarned is forearmed.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Note to all you folks thinking of moving to North Dakota to start cashing in on the oil boom:\u00a0 North Dakota is cold.\u00a0\u00a0 There aren&#8217;t a lot of trees.\u00a0 And outside of the eight or nine\u00a0significant-sized cities (Fargo, Grand Forks, Jamestown, Devil&#8217;s Lake, Bismark\/Mandan, Minot, Williston, Dickinson, and maybe Valley City), there just aren&#8217;t a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[57,297,299,46,21,52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-38419","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-economy-and-the-market","category-favorites-culture","category-favorites-personal","category-five-ate-for-oh-won","category-midwest","category-life"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38419","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=38419"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38419\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":44815,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/38419\/revisions\/44815"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=38419"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=38419"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shotinthedark.info\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=38419"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}